Sunday 27 December 2009

UK 2.0: Wien - Nights of Christmas Markets

Past the Spanish Riding School, we crossed a busy main road and stumbled into Maria-Theresien-Platz. The golden hour arrived, when lights were lit and the sky was not yet completely dark.

As we arrived, a flock of birds waltz and twirled over the square. They came back to perform their aerial acrobatics twice, only minutes later. (Or so I believe both flocks were one and the same).

Maria-Theresien-Platz also happened to be the site of the first Christmas market I came across this year and Wien was famous for its many Christmas markets.

I love the cozy yellow light that rimmed the huts under the blue sky. The stately buildings of the Natural History and Art History museums on each side of the square made a contrasting backdrop for the humble huts with extravagant decorations and merchandises. Here you can buy anything from food, spirits, toys (both soft and cuddly to wooden ones), decorations, scented candles to other curiosities and seasonal greeting cards. Being called Christmas market, Christmas themed items, both traditional (like Santa, elves, gingerbread man and snowflakes) or religious (angels and other nativity characters) were the recurring ones. A few stalls catered more for those into alternate spirituality.

This Christmas market wasn't too busy and it was pleasant just standing in the middle of it and soaking up the festive cheers.

I moved on as the sky turned black. We walked around the city while I deliberately refused to look at the map, relying on my inner instinct and 'dog-sense' instead. The inner GPS did not disappoint, and wandering randomly across the city and its busy traffic brought us to another Christmas market.

This was before Rathaus, in the Rathauspark. The majestic Gothic city council seat presided over the market like a reigning monarch. An Advent Calender was designed into the decoration on its high window arches. (Notice the golden numbers on black banners across the windows? Those are the dates in the month)

It totally dwarfed the previous one. There were many more children here and the goods seemed to pander more for the general public. The full scale of this one could only be appreciated as you stood on the opposite end of the square across Rathauspark.

On each side of the market square, there were trees. The trees were dressed opulently for the occasion. Each tree has its own uniquely shaped Christmas lights. There were mini Santas, hearts, colorful presents of every kind, animated snowflakes, to name a few.

Between the trees, the grassy park was transformed into a literal wonderland. There were train rides, amusement huts and even a choir of angels on tour. It must be the reason this was a better crowd magnet compared to the previous Christmas market I visited.

But of course for me at least, angel doesn't necessarily come floating in wings and halo. One can come on a leash.

After I have had my share of marveling and breathing in the festive atmosphere, an empty stomach drove us back to the city center near Stephansdom. While I would be reluctant to go for McDonald's that was all too readily available back in KL, it did served as a good place to start looking for other affordable restaurants.

A different set of street performers were plying their craft as we passed the statues a second time in the day. After dinner, we headed back. With minimal help from the map and plenty of help from The Pig, we found our way back without too much trouble.

We visited another Christmas market on the second night, one in Schloss Schönbrunn or the Schönbrunn Palace.

It wasn't as big as the one in Rathaus, but being in a former imperial summer residence reminiscent of Versailles does lent much grandeur to this one. A tall Christmas tree formed the focus here, while stalls made a square around the tree, they were in turn framed by the palace buildings.

It was a much colder night and I saw many merry strollers holding mugs of hot drinks in their hands. We boarded a U-Bahn back to the city center.

More lights were lit this night in the city. The giant red balls that were dim the previous night now glowed like miniature Mars.

I finally found an ice-cream shop still open during the evening hours below one of these ornamental balls. I had a scope of After Eight and cookies each. It was cold outside, but that was the whole exhilarating point of licking ice-cream on a winter night.

When the night got colder, we took our leave through the shadows of Stephansdom. I count myself blessed for being able to visit these fabled Christmas markets of Wien.

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