There are 3 things in Vienna (or as I prefer to call its German name, Wien) that I like, and 2 things I love. The 3 things are embodied below.
We stayed in 'Suite Hotel 200m zum Prater' near Preter Park. It was a fairly nice and spacious place, if slightly far from the city center attractions. As we took a taxi to the hotel, I first noticed the significant difference between Prague and Wien. To me, Wien was largely what Prague wasn't. The Old Town area in Prague was filled with narrow streets and jam-packed souvenir shops selling a giddy amount of dazzling wares where shop keepers and peddlers greeted the passing mass of tourists most vociferously. It was chaotic. And I like that chaos and cacophony that lent those historical streets a very human quality. Wien, as far as I can see, was the very embodiment of order. The streets were wide, the houses were taller and grander than those in Prague. The whole city felt more serious and the colors duller. Maybe because I just came from Prague that felt so warm with human-touch, that Wien felt like a machine, a cold and dead thing. It gave me shivers down my spine. There were beauty and art. But even those felt so fettered and restrained.
That was my impression until I saw The Pig as we pass by Donaukanal or Danube Canal in the taxi. The brightly colored pink Suinae changed my mind. It even help us get back to the hotel in the night. (Its picture will have to wait for the 2nd day's entry).
In many ways, Wien reminded me a lot of Stuttgart. Maybe it was the relationship between the two countries and their proximity that granted such resemblance. I tired hard to find something different about Wien, but to no avail until I wandered into the presence of Stephansdom. The mighty cathedral was undergoing conservation work on its exterior. To the side, many horse carriages waited. Although the Old Town Square in Prague have those archaic vehicles as well, this particular lane stunk of putrid horse urine. Perhaps this was the way Wien mark its esteemed standing for housing the world-famous Spanish Riding School just a few blocks away.
The sun was low while the clouds were thick on that Tuesday afternoon. Not many lights were lit in the cathedral and I found very little illumination within.
Seeking light in the house of Glory, I took an elevator up to the North Tower (or the Eagle tower) where the New Pummerin, currently 3rd largest swinging bell in Europe was installed. While the bell was tucked behind metal fences and was hardly visible in the diminishing light, the balcony around it gave an nearly unobstructed view of the northern roof mosaic. These are the coats of arms of the City of Vienna and of the Republic of Austria.
It did reminded me of Lego, anyone?
You can see one of the two Roman Towers on the west front that flanked the Giant's Door (or main entrance of the cathedral). I did not know about the Mastodon femur or I would certainly look for it.
One good advice I was given whenever visiting a new place is to go somewhere high, then you would get an overview of a city. You might even pick up places of interest based on their profile from above.
There was a curios creature in this one.
Outside the holy house, we were at once assaulted with many global brands like McDonald's. This made Wien felt like any other 'shopping city' around the world again. We looked back at the cathedral and tried hard to focus on the Christmas decorations instead.
It was almost dark and the gray cloud has cheated us of one sunset. Wiki says 'Art and culture have a long tradition in Vienna, including theater, opera, classical music and fine arts.' I was afraid to say that my only exposure to the music of Wien are those performed by their street musicians. I don't think they are half bad.
Street musicians brought to mind an Austrian friend whom I have not been in contact with for a while. Patrick Proier was a lively and interesting soul, an entertainer, unlike the mostly drab ones I came across in Wien. I did dearly wished to see him there, if only I had contacted him prior.
Lion Club set up booths around the city center and they seem to be doing rather well, judging by the crowds patronizing them. We made a turn, under this glistering tunnel and pass beyond the Spanish Riding School.
Sunday, 27 December 2009
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