Sunday 21 March 2010

Hyderabad: Golconda Fort

We visited Golconda Fort on 24th Jan. The setting sun was casting long shadows as we drove through its sturdy gates and cruise along its massive outer walls.

Far from being a ruin, the fort was bustling with people, both local and foreign. It was questionable if the old gray stones had not already recapture a portion of its former prosperity. Though it might have been abandoned and the finer treasures of the courts long removed, the hold exerted by its indomitable husk had perhaps never waned. I wondered what would it be like, living in proximity to such a magnificent place of bygone kingdoms.

This is the entrance to the fort. Beyond it rose the full view of the fort.

Right past the main gate was the grand portico where allegedly if you clap your hands, the sound could be heard at the highest point of the citadel. We did not get to try this, since the one clapping in the portico could not be the one to verify it on top.

What I found to be special of this fort is how it is still very much part of the local residents' life. A sleepy pup napped in the gentle tangerine light while people picnicked and played sports among the ruins.

As we hiked the well-worn steps to ascend the granite hill, more of Hyderabad came into view.

These rodents are common in the fort. After all, the cats need to eat.

Up we went and grander view greeted us.

Parts of the fort was more overgrown, a perfect place to relieve yourself should the need arises.

We did not stop for rest much along the way for the setting sun drove us on. The panoramic view offered by the elevated fort served as a prime spot to enjoy the sunset, yet another show of light and shadows beckoned us to descend as quickly as we climbed.

This was a mosque near the highest point of the fort. The delicate carvings on the minarets still endure to this day.

People on the rooftop was playing some sports, a testament that much life and passion yet exists within these ancient stones.

Green birds that were once common now lingered on a tree beside a contemporary Hindu temple.

These are the views from the highest point. We had a good look of the surrounding land. Stones, scrubs and dust were dominant elements in Hyderabad landscape.

For the most part, the downward path was a lot straighter and it barely took any time for us to reach the theater area in which we would listen to the story of Golconda and witness the light show.

We marched towards the once royal chambers. Between the swarm of frenzied mosquitoes and the dust in the air, I have problems imagining the very same place with carpets, tapestries and perfume.

If I should say that this is a hard place, even the cats looked different. There was another one with rugged coat with fur looking like spikes prowling proudly among the shadows.

In the halls of the royal household we sat, listening to their tales, a universal drama of love, loyalty and betrayal and of the rising and falling of dynasties. Hindi and Telegu songs blared between the narrations. The colored lights were pretty, if only they had shown a finale of washing the drab fort in rainbow hue.

After the hour-long presentation ended, we bid the well-fed vampires farewell and left the fort through golden tunnels perhaps alluding to its splendorous past.

The Koh-i-noor was said to have come from Golconda. I would like to see it one day.

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