When someone ask me about my current favorite outdoor attraction, I'll most likely say Cheddar and Stonehaven. Stonehaven is a town by the sea slightly south from Aberdeen. The hustle of London and Glasgow are absent from this humble town. Walking down its peaceful streets and glimpsing the nearby sea cliffs and countrysides, you can feel your 'tension of city living' ebbing with the tide.
Dunnottar Castle was our main reason for visiting Stonehaven. From the town center, we need to travel through a winding lane atop the sea cliffs to reach the castle. Each bend of the road revealed vistas that are increasingly stunning.
As we navigate the narrow way, we often have the cliff and sea on one side and vast empty fields, plowed and ready for the season on the other side.
Along the way, we also came across many dog-walkers, old couples and family with children. I think here is where the Scottish friendliness is very much exemplified. People are warm enough to greet a tourist they met randomly on this muddy road, something I've not experienced elsewhere. The distance of the trail is 3km long and the further we move away from the city and closer to the castle, the more sea birds we saw. As we get closer to the castle, the sheer cliffs are dotted with countless resting and nesting gulls.
This is the castle ruins as viewed from the opposite cliff. As the ruins were surrounded by steep cliffs on every side. We have to descend into the shadowy beach to reach the castle's gatehouse. The strategically located ancient Dunnottar had seen its fair share of war and conflicts and played important parts in the history of Scotland.
Not much of the fortress' old splendor survived. Only the ancient stones were left now, overgrown and blending seamlessly into the natural landscape. Forsaken but not forgotten, despite the tourists, seabirds and pigeons has taken up residence in the man made shelter. As we explore this historical site, we are clearly reminded that we are now the intruder. One must take care not to spook the colonies least you bring a flurry of agitated feathered bomber overhead.
There were just so many of these that you will get them in the frame even if you simply clicked away. When I was still in junior school, after watching National Geographic and Survivors (the documentaries on animals, not the reality TV) I'd consider if becoming a naturalist, biologist, or crazy people who come out here to study and record these wonderful creatures can be a viable career.
In a way, I think walking here really gave me a taste of what it feels like to be a biologist or wildlife photographer. I don't feel too comfortable here, knowing nature's unpredictability and being very much at the mercy of something that is way beyond your control. The tranquility of the scenery can be quite deceptive. Under the picturesque scene, there looms the reality of mortality. Least we forget, the story that is playing out in front of us is one about survival. Yes, there are such an abundance of life here. But life can only be sustained by death (and we did saw something grisly in the middle of a green field among the ruins.) Observing such intense display of the Circle of Life can be both terrifying and exhilarating.
Despite the birds and the strong chilly wind of the North Sea, visitors to the castle are rewarded with splendid views of sea and land. After our tour among the fortress, we descended once more onto the shoreline and walked along the coast.
Between the gravels and rocks are surf pools, where I half expected to find star fish or sea urchin. Alas, I neither saw those nor puffins which should be common in the area. I did suspected that the holes and burrows on the cliff sides might be puffin holes.
Gulls, gulls, and more gulls. They seem to be dominating everywhere, soaring in the air, nesting on the vertical cliff faces, resting on the rough sandy beach and even floating on the azure waves.
And finally, when I thought that I've seen as many congregating gulls as there can be in one place, this is what greeted me on the beach back in Stonehaven town.
Stonehaven, a beautiful sanctuary you are. If I may, I'd like to visit your wonderful shores and walk once more upon your stony beaches, contemplating the glorious creation.
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